City of a thousand windows
A UNESCO Ottoman town stacked up a hillside — white houses with rows of windows, a still-inhabited castle, and one of the Balkans' best-preserved old quarters.




Signature local dishes worth seeking out.
Walk the old town; furgon (minibus) from Tirana.
Stay inside the castle walls — tiny B&Bs in still-lived-in homes.
Very safe. Driving can be chaotic — defensive only.
Quiet — old men play dominoes in the plaza.