The Jamaica before the resorts
The island's north-east corner, greener and far quieter than Montego Bay — the Blue Lagoon, a river you raft on bamboo, and Frenchman's Cove where a cold river runs straight into a warm sea.




Signature local dishes worth seeking out.
Car or driver; the coast road from Kingston takes about 2.5 hours.
Boston Bay is where jerk was invented — eat it from the pit, not a restaurant.
Resort areas are fine; take licensed taxis and avoid inner-city Kingston at night.