Mountain-backed Persian capital
Iran's 12-million capital sits below the Alborz mountains — Qajar palaces, the world's second-largest book bazaar, and a contemporary art scene hidden behind apartment doors.




Signature local dishes worth seeking out.
Metro is excellent and signed in English; Snapp rideshare.
Iranians refuse payment 3x as politeness (taarof) — insist gently.
Check current advisories — situation changes. Locals are famously hospitable; carry cash (sanctions block cards).
Officially none — café culture goes late, private gatherings exist.