La Grassa — Italy's food capital
Italy's least-touristy big city is its most edible — endless porticoes, Europe's oldest university, and the home turf of tortellini, mortadella, and ragù alla bolognese.




Walk under the porticoes; bus for distance.
Skip "spaghetti bolognese" — locals never call ragù that. Order tagliatelle al ragù.
Very safe. Watch for pickpockets in major cities.
Via del Pratello bar street; Mercato delle Erbe night vibe.